ID 663597
Lot 3132 | Kaiserin Elisabeth von Österreich - Dolman-Mantel zu einem Cul-Paris-Kleid, um 1875
Estimate value
€ 7 500
Blauer Samt mit vorderseitig nahezu bodenlangem Schnitt und kürzerem, weit geschnittenem Rücken für den Reifrock eines Kleides oder Rocks der sogenannten ersten Tournüre (etwa 1872-76). Die Armausschnitte durch zwei etwa ellenbogenlange, vernähte Überwürfe (eine Befestigung im Rücken lose) bedeckt. Der hochstehende Kragen innen wie außen sowie im oberen Brustbereich mit feinen goldgestickten Blattranken-Bordüren besetzt, diese auch am Saum der Schulterüberwürfe sowie dem langen Vordersaum. Vom Hals weg vier Verschlusshaken, im Taillenbereich zwei weitere. Kaisergelbes Seidenfutter, im Nacken Wiener Schneideretikett "R. Aufhauser - Robes & Confections. Lingerie. Wien", am Unterrand vernähtes Inventaretikett "Privatfond I.K.K. Majestät No. 2440" sowie gestempeltes Monogramm "E(?)" unter Krone und mit Nummer "643" einer früheren Erst- oder späteren Zweitverwendung. Dazu der über dem Mantel zu tragende Ziergürtel, en suite aus blauem Samt mit gelbem Futter und goldgestickter Blattbordüre gefertigt. Drei Verschlusshaken, alle Gegenösen fehlen.
Einige Nähte gelöst, das Futter mit einem größeren Fleck, ansonsten in Substanz und Farbfrische sehr gut erhalten.
Provenienz: Hermann Historica, 24. Auktion im Mai 1991, Los 2858. Seither in einer deutschen Privatsammlung.
Zustand: II -
Empress Elisabeth of Austria – a dolman-style coat matching a Cul de Paris dress, circa 1875
Blue velvet, almost full-length at the front, loose fitting and cut away at the back to accommodate the crinoline of a dress or skirt of the first bustle era (1872-76 or thereabouts). The arm holes covered by two approximately elbow-length, stitched cape sleeves (one fastening has come undone at the back). The high collar embellished inside and outside with fine borders of leafy vines in gold embroidery, continuing onto the upper chest area, the hem of the shoulder capes and the long front seam. Four fastening hooks starting at the throat, a further two at the waist. Imperial yellow silk lining, a tailor's label reading "R. Aufhauser - Robes & Confections. Lingerie. Wien" at the neck, an inventory label "Privatfond I.K.K. Majestät No. 2440" stitched on the lower edge, along with a stamped monogram "E(?)" below a crown and the number "643" from an earlier first use or subsequent secondary use. Designed to be worn over the coat, the decorative belt made en suite in blue velvet with yellow lining and a border of leaves in gold embroidery. Three fastening hooks, all matching loops have been lost. Several seams loose, a large stain on the lining, the material otherwise in excellent condition, the colours still vibrant.
Provenance: Hermann Historica, 24th Auction in May 1991, lot 2858. Thereafter in a private German collection.
Condition: II -
Auction house category: | International History and Military |
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Auction house category: | International History and Military |
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Address of auction |
Hermann Historica Bretonischer Ring 3 85630 Grasbrunn / München Germany | ||||||||||||||
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